Mike has imposed a cut off time for toast this morning. This is because the toaster needs the generator to be on in order to work, and for the last few mornings, toast-making time has been staggered so much by people getting up at different times that the generator has been on-off-on-off. Today, toast is forbidden after 10am which does act to force certain members of the crew out of their beds a little earlier than usual!
Allison, John, Mike and myself go ashore to provision and get rid of the rubbish. While John and Allison are in the supermarket, Mike and I go off to say goodbye to Monica and Nick. It’s a weird goodbye, more of an adieu as we think we might make it back one last time before we head off to St Martin. We’ll try our best anyway. They are still amazed by my head of curls, and I receive lots of pats to the head, just like a poodle. We have lots of hugs and kisses (well Monica and I really) then we go off to find John and Allison, who have given up waiting for us in the supermarket and are waiting for us in the shade of the beautiful flower bush that attacked Mike last night.
We pull the anchor up and motor over to Neckar Island. Everyone saw a programme about Sir Richard and his islands recently and are eager to see everything ‘in the flesh’.
Photo: Accommodation on Neckar Island
Photo: I just can’t believe those plastic palm trees!
We arrive at the far end of Neckar then turn the boat around for another look. I point out all the lights on the beach to Allison, who looks at me in amazement because a flood-lit beach is not her idea of being eco-friendly, but I insist that I am right.
Photo: Jean, the ‘oh so accurate’ tour guide helpfully points out local sights!
Later that night, while looking at the photo, I realise that they are hobie cat and Mike, rather too patiently for my liking, explains that the white ‘flood lights’ are actually masts fitted with floats. I still think they looked like lamp posts! After all, they never had those things on top of the one we capsized off the Sardinian coast all those years ago.
Photo: Beach hobie cats fitted with flood lights!
From Neckar, we motor around Eustacia Island, then through the channel to Saba Rock, past Bitter End Yacht Club and coming to a rest in Biras Creek outside the Fat Virgin Cafe.
Photo: Rachel and Simon by the sign of The Fat Virgin Cafe
Arriving at the dinghy dock, I wonder whether we will be allowed to dock as it seems to indicate that only fat virgins are allowed to tie up!
Photo: Fat Virgins only?
The Fat Virgin Cafe is where the best chips in the BVIs are freshly made in front of you. These are real chips. Huge wedges of deep fried potato, not those thin French fried things which bear no resemblance to their former identity. Malcolm bought some on the Dinghy Poker Run and I have been dreaming about them ever since.
Photo: Wine and chips for lunch – yum!
Allison and I have a glass of Pinot Grigio and a plate of chips each. Very sophisticated. Everyone else eats a variation on the same theme. It is a very good meal. We take a look at the shop where Rachel and I buy the same dresses but with different writing.
Puerto Rican boats are everywhere. You could be forgiven for thinking that you are in a different island group as every voice around is Spanish, and there is reggaeton blaring out from every direction.
Photo: Puerto Rican Navy in evidence - everywhere
Fast speed boats charge around the bay. The noise can be deafening and the wake they cause throw all the other boats around. We cross North Sound and anchor once more in Leverick Bay. Everyone enjoys a somewhat sleepy afternoon, literally for Mike and I. When I emerge I discover that Rachel has been in a cleaning mood all afternoon, scrubbing down the cockpit and doing some hand washing. She is obviously getting used to the motion of the boat.
Allison cooks sweet and sour chicken for dinner and the kids do the cleaning up. Cocktails follow dinner but we all have to race into the boat to avoid a sharp shower. We can hear the noise of the Christmas festivities even where we are anchored. It must be at ear drum piercing level down at the beach! No one is desperate to go and investigate though!
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