Peter Island to Road Town and Back Again!

There are two heavy rain storms during the night and lots of wind, although I only one of them.  Mike gets up to check on the boat but all is well and he’s able to get back to sleep quite quickly.

When we wake in the morning, the rain has passed, but the clouds are still there, threatening to give us some showers.  Today is the day that we are supposed to get our cheque from the Treasury.  We decide to phone before we make our way back to Road Town as there is no point going if the cheque is not there.  We have also found out that it is festival week next week and none of the government offices or the banks will be open from Monday to Wednesday inclusive.

It takes ages to find the telephone number.  They obviously don’t want people to phone them, but tucked away in a link we find it along with a theme statement (comically this is “You can count on us” and a list of services (which says that they will issue cheques to the public within 5 working days of receipt – another joke!).  I write both things down ready to quote at them if I need to.

Just after 9 I phone the Treasury and ask for our lady’s extension and am told she is not available.  Here we go, I think to myself, but I am successful at getting her extension number and I phone a little later.  Guess what?  Against all odds, she’s there and confirms that our cheque is ready for collection.

Without waiting for it to get lost or eaten or something, we get the anchor up and sail over to Road Town once more, anchor outside the breakwater, and dinghy in as fast as we can.  We get to the Treasury and the same guy is there, confused that we have returned on a day when there is no cheque run.  Luckily our lady is there too.  When the guy fails to find the cheque the first time he looks, she tells him it is definitely there.  We watch as he thumbs through each cheque individually in the pile.  Ours is the last one!  We check it is for the right amount, made out to the right person and leave, thanking ‘our lady’ before we go.

We get to the bank, Banco Popular, and groan when we see the queue – it is nearly to the door.  This is because of the three day holiday next week.  We have left Allison, Rachel and Adam shopping, telling them to meet us in twenty minutes.  There is no way we will get through the queue in that time, so I risk leaving the bank and going to find them.  I find them in Kenny Tees, looking through the racks.  I warn them we could be an hour and not to hurry and go back to make sure that Mike is OK – he’s not good at queuing!  We both need to be there as both our names are on the cheque so there is no escape.  We queue for 45 minutes and just before we get to the front of the Allison, Rachel and Adam arrive.  Then it’s our turn and we get our money.

We get back to the boat and I make sandwiches for lunch, before heading out for Peter Island again, but this time to Little Harbour.  All of a sudden there is an almighty crack and the gennaker breaks loose from the top of the mast and goes crashing into the sea.  As this is the only sail we have out, the boat comes to a slow stop and we manage to drag it back over the side rails, amazingly undamaged!  We are lucky.  Of all the reasons it could have broken, this one is the cheapest – the gennaker halyard has broken.  The trouble now is that this huge amount of light sail will not stay put on the trampoline.  The wind keeps getting into it and it is in danger of going over the side again.  Adam is reluctant to sit on it as he is intent on watching the fishing line so I volunteer to sunbathe on it.

Photo:  Doing my duty – pinning down the gennaker 

It’s an occasionally wet, and continually hot ride over but at least it is uneventful.  We anchor in Little Harbour and everyone, including me, goes swimming or snorkelling.  There is a fair amount to see.  Small sharks, tarpon and large rays swim around the boat.  This is the first time I have seen a ray close to, and I am not even snorkelling.  The water is so flat that I can see down to the bottom without wearing a mask.  I just float comfortably with my noodle. 

  Photo:  A pelican waits for a fish with a seagull waits to scavenge

Pelicans dive bomb all around us for fish.  If they manage to catch anything, cheeky seagulls actually land on their heads trying to pinch the fish away from them.  The pelicans have learned to keep their beaks down in the water long enough to get their catch neatly into place before throwing back their heads and swallowing.  I have never seen a seagull being successful in their attempts at stealing, but it doesn’t stop them trying.  Sometimes two seagulls will land on a pelican at the same time.

Photo:  Being Simon means continually throwing yourself off the boat!

Being in the water cools everyone down until we start to cook dinner then it all heats up again.  Dinner is more of that lovely imitation crab with spaghetti.

Photo:  Dinner on Jeannius – sorry, John, I chopped you off!

Photo:  Sunset over Tortola and St John from Peter Island

Allison, John, Mike and myself reminisce over dinner about the good old days at Control Data where we all met.  None of us can believe that was thirty years ago.  It makes you wonder what everyone else is doing these days.  The kids get so bored they actually do the washing up again.

Then it’s time for bed!

Norman Island to Peter Island

The toaster curfew still exists so everyone is up by 9.30.  Mike discovers that the fishing line, which had been rolled up but left by the side of the boat, had become unravelled, rolled over the side and somehow got itself tangled around the propeller.  What a good start to the day.

Simon is volunteered to snorkel beneath the boat to see what has happened.  Hopefully it could have snagged on a rock, but no, it is definitely the propeller.  Mike hands him the knife and he hacks off as much as he can but there is some there.  Luckily this is the propeller that is being replaced today by a friend with scuba gear.  While Simon is working, Mike helpfully chucks the piece of tuna which had been on the hook over the side which attracts the attention of a barracuda.  He swims around Simon, eyeing him suspiciously, and Simon eyes him back, but is distracted by seeing a ray swimming along the sea bed in front of him.

We head over to Nanny Cay – today I am having my hair cut and coloured – hurray!  We arrive about 12.30 and I go below and put some makeup on.  When one is going to have to stare at oneself in a mirror for the best part of two hours, one needs a little help!

My appointment is at 1.00.  I walk in the door and Jonelle beams at me – unfortunately she likes my curls and thinks they make me look younger.  Yeah, right.  But she seems serious.  Strange.

Hair cut, roots gone and hair blow dried straight for a while, I head back to the boat.  Our friend has just finished fitting the propeller – no problems apparently, quite an event in itself!

John, Allison, Mike and myself do hopefully the last bit of provisioning then I go and pay for the dockage.  As usual, the girl on the desk is unable to work out that from 12.30 to 3.30 is three hours and not four.  I had this trouble last time.  Eventually she manages to charge me the right amount.

Allison and I wander around a couple of shops then go back to the boat.  We cook lunch (a very late lunch) en route to Peter Island.  We have the remainder of yesterday’s tuna, fried with onion and garlic, with chilli and mayonnaise in a sandwich.  Yum.

Just as we finish, the fishing line goes again.  This time Adam reels it in.  We see the fish leap on the surface of the water and it’s a big one.  Unfortunately when he lands it he is left with just the head.  What we saw leaping in the water was the barracuda that bit the fish off behind the head and is now digesting the rest of it.  Adam is beside himself.

We arrive in Deadman’s Bay, and anchor for the night.  Allison and I go to the beach and settle ourselves down in the chairs for a girly gossip.  It is beautiful.  There is a gentle breeze and the beach is completely deserted.

Photo:  All I need now is a waiter with a cocktail

Photo:  A beach all to ourselves 

Photo:  Allison paddling as the sun goes down

We return to the boat for cocktails, then dinner.  We have ice cream for desert.  Strangely, the tub which promised ‘Premium Grade’ white chocolate chip ice cream, is chocolate ice cream with dark chocolate pieces.  Not a white chocolate chunk in sight.  The we read on the label that it is a product of St Thomas.  That explains it!  The list of ingredients, read out my Mike once we have eaten it, ensures that none of us will eat it again.

Cooper Island to The Bight, Norman Island

Due to the toaster curfew, I cheerfully knock on Adam’s and Rachel’s bedroom doors to wake them and drag them out of their pits, then we put the gennaker up and sail into Road Town, anchoring just inside the breakwater at Village Cay/Wickhams Cay.

It is time for Mike and I to deal with “Island Bureaucracy”.  I am actually surprised that Mike allows me to accompany him for this as he knows my temper is on a short leash.  Our task for the day is to get our cheque for the bond we had to pay back in January for our work permit.  The $1700 each is to pay for our air fare back home if the government of the BVIs ever has reason to deport us. This is refundable when you cease working and/or leave the territory.  We ceased working in June and if you have been reading the blog, will remember that we gave due notice of our pending departure just over two weeks ago – in writing, as requested.

We arrive in the Immigration Department to be told that we should have gone to the Treasury Cashier’s Department, practically the other side of Road Town.  The fact that I was told to ‘return in two weeks for the cheque’ led me to believe that I should return to the government department where this was stated, but obviously not.

Mike and I trudge to the Treasury.  We are told that they have no record of us or the fact that we need our money back.  We are told to return to Immigration.  We trudge back.  Immigration tell us that they have definitely sent the paperwork to the Treasury and that we should return there.  We dig our heels in and ask them to phone the Treasury and see what has happened to the paperwork.  They are reluctant to do this but eventually they do.  They come back a couple of minutes later and say that the Treasury do have the paperwork, but they don’t know when the cheque will be issued.  I remind them that we are leaving the territory soon and need a definite date when we can get our money.  They guy at Immigration has no idea when the cheque will materialise.  I ask him if he will call the Treasury for us and find out when the cheque will be ready but he refuses, telling us that we have to go back to the Treasury, but at least this time he gives us the name of the person he talked to!

Back we trudge.  All this trudging, by the way is done in the heat of the midday sun.  Lovely.  The guy at the Treasury smiles and says “Back again?”.  Returning the smile is not easy but we manage it.  He still says he has no record of us so we mention the Treasury official’s name and he calls her, talks, then hangs up and relays her message - all the cheques have been issued for this week - it might be issued next Friday.  Next Friday is when I need to be in St Martin to meet my sister and her family.  I throw a quiet fit and he quickly ushers us round the corner to meet the named official.

She searches her database for any mention of Jean Beswick, Michael Beswick or Jeannius.  There is nothing.  Eventually, she finds us registered under Michael Jean Beswick.  Hurray, we are there, and the pending cheque is for the right amount.  But she reiterates that we have missed the cheque run and there won’t be another until next week.  At this point I am so frustrated that my eyes start to water and I start blubbing about having no income and having to get to St Martin – all of which is true.  She says she understands our predicament and will try her best to have the cheque ready for this Friday.  She was pleasant and seemed genuine.  We will see.

We trundle back to Supa Value to buy some shrimp, get back to Jeannius then Mike, John, Simon and Rachel go to Bobby’s to buy the last of the provisioning.

Photo:  Leaving Road Town harbour – John and I pose on the bow

We eat lunch sailing over to The Caves at Norman Island.  Just as we arrive, the fishing line goes out, Simon reels in a tuna and Mike gets it off the hook.  We pour alcohol into its gills and it quickly goes still. 

Photo:  Mike with the tuna – still struggling at this point

We all go snorkelling – and I mean everyone – Rachel included, who now discovers, nearly at the end of her holiday, that she loves it.

Photo:  Long roots from the bushes reach down to the sea

Photo:  Snorkelling area at Norman Island 

After the snorkelling we motor around the corner and anchor near to the Willy T, where we will eat tonight.  Adam is particularly interested in eating at the Willy T.  He has heard stories about the naked ladies on the bar with whipped cream on their bodies, and is hopeful of eating barbecued ribs.  I don’t know which thought spurs him on more!

John volunteers to gut and fillet our tuna.  Mike and I are happy to let him – I remember my bloody finger nails from the last two times!

Photo:  John fillets our albacore tuna

Once the tuna is filleted, I thinly slice it, mix it with wasabe paste and sesame oil and it gets eaten straight away.  The rest goes in the fridge for tomorrow’s lunch – yummy!

Photo:  The floating bar/restaurant, The William Thornton 

As it is now low season, Mike assures us that we don’t need a reservation.  We decide to eat later than usual and arrive at the Willy T around 7.30, to be told that we do need reservations and there are loads of people before us – we just have to wait.  Adam looks through the photo album and we all watch, with amazement, the video of still photos showing past naked antics at the bar.  There are indeed many stills of the type Adam has been hoping for, probably quite an education!

  Photo:  Mike and John at the Willy T

Photo:  Oops, obviously too much wine again!

Photo:  Allison and John waiting for dinner

Photo:  Adam and Simon searching for ribs on the menu

We eventually get our food at around 9.  Adam has his longed-for ribs

Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda to Cooper Island

Mike turns the generator off at 10.20 am and there are still people who manage to miss their breakfast toast and arrive at The Baths, hungry!

Mike takes everyone (including me for a change) over in the dinghy so that we can ‘do the walk’ through the granite boulders to Devil’s Bay.  It is nearly two years since I have done this, with my sister and her family, and I am looking forward to seeing it, probably for the last time.

Photo:  Starting the walk through the boulders to Devil’s Bay

Unfortunately the day is overcast in patches, not the bright blue skies that I would have liked for creating the pools of light in the caves, but although there are quite a lot of boats in the bay, the rocks are not very crowded.

We walk though to the large, vaulted cave and pose for pictures – quite the tourists, then start the climb through the rocks and up the ladders.  Allison is a little claustrophobic and a couple of places cause her to shudder a little but she is fine.

Photo:  Rachel and Simon in The Cave

We stop at the rock pools but no one can entice Rachel to snorkel.  To be fair, you can see almost as well without a snorkel as the water is clear and shallow.  We stand a watch a beautiful bright blue fish swimming around just below us then laugh as a little fat grouper has to swim sideways in order to get over the rocks.

Photo:  Searching the rock pools for fish – Purvis style!

Photo:  Huge granite boulders balance precariously on top of each other

Photo:  Granite boulders looking like giant pebbles

The path opens out into Devil’s Bay, and the sun decides to come out for a short while.  Rachel decides to snorkel and actually likes it.  Two white angel fish swim around our feet, causing the females amongst us to shriek and get out of their way as they get too close, brushing against our legs.  I decide to be brave and stand still, looking down and watching them approach my feet.  They are all of six inches long but still one of the little buggers bites me.  It doesn’t hurt, but that little nibble sends me shrieking and running away out of the water.

We decide we have had enough and call on the VHF for Mike to collect us.  Some of the younger contingent don’t have the energy to walk back so he picks us up from Devil’s Bay.

We have lunch then sail over to Cooper Island, where we intend to have a relaxing afternoon (meaning a sleep!) and a nice meal at the Beach Club.  We sail with the gennaker up, the waves pushing us along at a comfortable 6 to 7 knots.  I even do a little sunbathing on the bow, with the gennaker providing intermittent shade, in an attempt to get rid of the strap marks that I seem to have gained in the morning.

As we enter Manchioneel Bay, I notice (and hear) that there is some sort of construction work going on.  We pick up a mooring ball and Mike phones ashore to see what is going on.  Sure enough, they are extending the restaurant, and can, for the time being, only offer a reduced menu at tables on the beach.  After some discussion, it is decided that Rachel and Simon will go ashore alone to eat and the rest of us will eat on the boat, saving a meal out for another night.

Mike and I have our afternoon kip, mine ending up being rather longer than his.  After taking Rachel and Simon ashore and buying Adam some take away chips (to go with his Bubba beefburgers which turn out to be disgusting) Allison and I make angel hair spaghetti with crab, garlic, chilli and lime.  Although we don’t have some of the ingredients (so overdo some of the others – notably – surprise, surprise, the garlic) and the crab is imitation crab, it is delicious.

It’s a late night to bed – after 10 before we head down!

Anegada to Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda

We aim to put the main sail up with two reefs in while still at anchor because it was 20-25 knots even in the anchorage.  John goes to the mast and releases the jammer on the topping lift instead of the main halyard and there is an almighty crash as the boom drops onto the bimini.  There is also an almighty expletive which erupts from me as I jump six inches into the air.  Luckily, as the boom does not sweep from side to side (very lucky in this wind) no damage is done.  He looks sheepish and apologetic and we let him off.

I watch Anegada gradually disappear surrounded by its beautiful turquoise waters and cannot believe that I will probably never see it again.

It takes an hour and three quarters to sail over to The Dogs, using the main and the genoa.  Our preferred stop for snorkelling is Great Dog but as we approach we can see that all the mooring balls are taken.  In fact, there seems to be less of them than there were the last time we were there.  Even more appear to have had their top lines sheered off and are probably lying in wait just below the surface ready to ensnare an unwary propeller.

We motor over to George Dog, anchor and have lunch.  Mike then sees that one of the boats moored at Great Dog is slipping away so we up anchor and motor over there for our snorkelling.  Mike goes snorkelling with Allison, John and Simon with strict instructions to come back and get me if it is really good.  Then I fall asleep.  Just as well he doesn’t come back.

We motor over to Spanish Town and anchor outside the marina.  Allison, John, Mike and I go ashore to get rid of the rubbish and do some more provisioning.  We meet Rick in Bucks and spot the Dutch family we saw in the laundrette, then stagger back to the dinghy with the bags.

The water maker has been going for hours by this time and at last there is enough for showers, followed by spaghetti bolognaise, some reading then bed.  Tomorrow it’s The Baths and Devils Bay.

And my hair is still curly!

Leverick Bay to Anegada

Although I wake at 6.10 and summon Mike (bless him) for my two cups of tea early on, I don’t get up for breakfast until after 8.  Mike is ensconced in front of the computer watching the Hungarian Grand Prix and is joined by various members of the male crew at different points.  I eventually get up for good just after 10.

No decision has been made at this point about where we are going.  Most people are just content to lie around on the boat, but Mike wants to give them somewhere different to gaze at while they do this and he decides to sail to Anegada.  The main sail goes up immediately, the anchor comes up and we set sail.  This causes the younger members of the crew to scuttle out of their pits and have breakfast before the generator is turned off.

It is a great sail to Anegada.  We are on a beam reach all the way, reaching 8.8 knots with winds of 20-25 knots.  The sun is out all the way and the sea, as we approach the island is its usual mix of turquoise blue. 

Photo:  The beautiful waters around Anegada

My hair, which has been hatless all the way, now closely resembles a bird’s nest.  I can’t wait until Thursday – hair cut day!  It’s lunchtime when we arrive.  We eat SASs – self assembly sandwiches, and Rachel clears up afterwards.

Another lazy afternoon follows.  You are meant to be lazy on Anegada. 

 Photo:  Adam relaxing in the shade of a towel with his PSP

Photo:  Mike – maybe too relaxed after dark and stormies!

Late in the afternoon Allison, John, Adam, Mike and myself go ashore.  We look around the few shops ending up at Potters By The Sea and from there walk along the beach as far as Neptune’s Treasure.  This, embarrassingly, is the first time I have walked along here, and as this is my last trip to Anegada, I felt I had to do it.

Photo:  Beachcombing with Allison

Photo:  Just our footprints on a deserted beach

Photo:  Rain clouds moving in as the sun sets 

Photo:  The sun sets behind storm clouds at the end of a sunny day on Anegada

Dinner is on board then an early night as I haven’t taken an afternoon nap.

Leverick Bay

Mike has imposed a cut off time for toast this morning.  This is because the toaster needs the generator to be on in order to work, and for the last few mornings, toast-making time has been staggered so much by people getting up at different times that the generator has been on-off-on-off.  Today, toast is forbidden after 10am which does act to force certain members of the crew out of their beds a little earlier than usual!

Allison, John, Mike and myself go ashore to provision and get rid of the rubbish.  While John and Allison are in the supermarket, Mike and I go off to say goodbye to Monica and Nick.  It’s a weird goodbye, more of an adieu as we think we might make it back one last time before we head off to St Martin.  We’ll try our best anyway.  They are still amazed by my head of curls, and I receive lots of pats to the head, just like a poodle.  We have lots of hugs and kisses (well Monica and I really) then we go off to find John and Allison, who have given up waiting for us in the supermarket and are waiting for us in the shade of the beautiful flower bush that attacked Mike last night.

We pull the anchor up and motor over to Neckar Island.  Everyone saw a programme about Sir Richard and his islands recently and are eager to see everything ‘in the flesh’.

Photo:  Accommodation on Neckar Island

Photo:  I just can’t believe those plastic palm trees!

We arrive at the far end of Neckar then turn the boat around for another look.  I point out all the lights on the beach to Allison, who looks at me in amazement because a flood-lit beach is not her idea of being eco-friendly, but I insist that I am right. 

Photo:  Jean, the ‘oh so accurate’ tour guide helpfully points out local sights!

Later that night, while looking at the photo, I realise that they are hobie cat and Mike, rather too patiently for my liking, explains that the white ‘flood lights’ are actually masts fitted with floats.  I still think they looked like lamp posts!  After all, they never had those things on top of the one we capsized off the Sardinian coast all those years ago.

Photo:  Beach hobie cats fitted with flood lights!

From Neckar, we motor around Eustacia Island, then through the channel to Saba Rock, past Bitter End Yacht Club and coming to a rest in Biras Creek outside the Fat Virgin Cafe.

Photo:  Rachel and Simon by the sign of The Fat Virgin Cafe

Arriving at the dinghy dock, I wonder whether we will be allowed to dock as it seems to indicate that only fat virgins are allowed to tie up!

Photo:  Fat Virgins only?

The Fat Virgin Cafe is where the best chips in the BVIs are freshly made in front of you.  These are real chips.  Huge wedges of deep fried potato, not those thin French fried things which bear no resemblance to their former identity.  Malcolm bought some on the Dinghy Poker Run and I have been dreaming about them ever since.

Photo:  Wine and chips for lunch – yum!

Allison and I have a glass of Pinot Grigio and a plate of chips each.  Very sophisticated.  Everyone else eats a variation on the same theme.  It is a very good meal.  We take a look at the shop where Rachel and I buy the same dresses but with different writing.

Puerto Rican boats are everywhere.  You could be forgiven for thinking that you are in a different island group as every voice around is Spanish, and there is reggaeton blaring out from every direction. 

Photo:  Puerto Rican Navy in evidence - everywhere 

Fast speed boats charge around the bay.  The noise can be deafening and the wake they cause throw all the other boats around.  We cross North Sound and anchor once more in Leverick Bay.  Everyone enjoys a somewhat sleepy afternoon, literally for Mike and I.  When I emerge I discover that Rachel has been in a cleaning mood all afternoon, scrubbing down the cockpit and doing some hand washing.  She is obviously getting used to the motion of the boat.

Allison cooks sweet and sour chicken for dinner and the kids do the cleaning up.  Cocktails follow dinner but we all have to race into the boat to avoid a sharp shower.  We can hear the noise of the Christmas festivities even where we are anchored.  It must be at ear drum piercing level down at the beach!  No one is desperate to go and investigate though!

Marina Cay to Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda

The day starts with Rachel rushing out of her room and into the cockpit of the boat thinking that she is going to be sick.  This is unfortunate as we already know the journey over to Virgin Gorda will be choppy as we are heading straight into the wind.

She lays quietly in the shade of the cockpit as we pitch and roll our way over the waves.  It is the bumpiest ride yet.

As we near the marina at Spanish Town, Allison and I gather together the washing as we are going to visit the laundrette that Mike has seen in the Mall.  He has assured me that it is a 100% improvement on the appearance of Freeman’s in Road Town. 

The fuel dock area is crowded with the PR Navy.  Boats are milling around vying for position at the dock.  Some even attempt to leave their boats tied up while they go shopping or on other errands but the dock master gets them moving.  Mike, never very patient when it comes to waiting in a queue starts making loud comments and ‘move along’ gestures which probably doesn’t actually move anything along at all.

Rachel gets off the boat almost immediately we arrive at the fuel dock which is just as well, as while we are filling the tank, diesel spurts out all over the cockpit cushion and the fumes are overwhelming.  Mike washes it off as soon as he can but it will still  smell – hopefully he gets the marks out though.

Allison and I trot off to the laundrette.  Mike is right.  This one is clean and all the machines seem to be in working order – well at least there is no heap of rusty, dead ones in a corner like at Cane Garden Bay, and it is completely devoid of people, unlike the ones in Freeman’s.  Hopefully it is devoid of cockroaches too although that is probably too much to hope for.  We load three machines, put the money in and hey presto, two of the three start to fill with water.  We have no idea why the other two don’t work and there are no staff to ask.  I wander off to the bar next door and ask the waitress is she knows when the staff are coming back.  She tells me there are no staff and I need to use to phone provided to call the office.  Three phone calls and twenty minutes later, the help that has been promised by the lady on the other end of the phone has not materialised.

A Dutch lady arrives to remove her clothes from the drier.  The machines had worked for her.  Then she points out that although we thought we had set the program to hot for both dud machines, we had failed to tell it whether we wanted permanent press or a delicate cycle.  We hadn’t known what permanent press was and the washing wasn’t delicate, so we had ignored both buttons.  The one working machine was on a warm cycle so didn’t need the extra button press.  We press permanent press button (still don’t know what this is) and they start to fill with water.  Phew!

When we leave, there is still no sign of the little man who allegedly has been despatched to sort the machines out.  He’s probably having his lunch.

Mike and Adam come back to the fuel dock in the dinghy to pick up the washing and Allison and I go to Bucks supermarket.  Mike returns to help us, and loaded with provisions we return to the boat.  I am very impressed.  John has gone through the washing bags, hung out wet stuff and made two of the beds back up.  He is now dripping with sweat and appreciates the challenges a galley slave/hostess faces.  He has not made my bed up, and given the sweat situation, I forgive him his dereliction of duty!!

We are to meet Rachel and Simon at Leverick Bay.  They are spending the afternoon on land and getting a taxi there.

The sail to Leverick Bay is as good as it gets with the light winds that we have.  We sail quite close to the wind and have to tack quite a bit, passing a large armada of PR fishing boats in Savannah Bay.  They are everywhere.  We arrive just fifteen minutes late and sweep into the marina to see if we can see Rachel and Simon – we see them waving from the bar, so once we are anchored up, Mike goes to pick them up.  Rachel is feeling much better – being a land lubber for the afternoon obviously worked.

We eat, shower and head off to the Christmas in July celebrations at the Jumbies Bar.  We arrive when there is a bit of a lull in the event.  The Mocko Jumbies arrive but are do not put on as exciting a show as usual. 

Photo:  The Mocko Jumbies in full swing

We don’t stay long as we are all tired.  Apparently everything gets going around 11.30 and will go on until about 4am.  Well past our bedtime.

Jost Van Dyke to Marina Cay

We leave Great Harbour before 8am.  The idea is to get as much distance covered as possible before Rachel wakes up as she has convinced herself that today is the day that she will be sea sick.  This is because we are expecting the journey to be a little rough, going straight into the wind.  In reality, the sea is quite gentle even though the wind is straight on the nose.  Because of this, we motor all the way.  Rachel and Simon emerge from their cabin just as we arrive at our destination.

We anchor back at Monkey Point, Guana Island once more – Mike wants to go snorkelling and I mention that I might actually go as it will be the last time I get the opportunity before we leave the BVIs.  We have lunch and I prepare the chicken for tonight’s meal, then everyone except Rachel piles into the dinghy and Mike takes us over to the reef, tying the dinghy onto the line when we arrive.

I cannot believe I have never snorkelled at Monkey Point.  I am nervous after the last ear infection so I have put my super dooper new ear plugs – funny little bright pink bell-shaped things.  I also wear my swim vest to stop me drowning when I attempt to empty my mask of water (or trying to drown Mike as I cling on to him).

I am the first over the side of the dinghy, lowering myself gently into the water – no back flips for me!  The I am off.  Mike catches me easily as he is wearing fins.  The visibility is amazing.  I see loads of squid, sergeant majors, yellowtail snapper, yellowtail damselfish, many types of grouper and parrotfish and a couple of unidentified things with great big yellow bug eyes which stop and stare as we hang over them in the water.  Mike and I swim around together, holding hands – sweet!  There are many types of coral too, as well as sea urchins and beautiful purple sea fans.  Truly beautiful.  I just wish I had got an underwater camera to record it all.

I enjoy myself so much that I decide to swim back to the boat, not straight back you understand, but via the scenic route along the shore.  Somewhere behind me are Allison and Simon.  Mike, Adam and John go back to the boat in the dinghy.  I feel very brave all alone.

When I get back to the boat there are thousands of little fish under it, as well as a school of sergeant majors.  These little fellows hover right by you, parting as you move any body part towards you.  They do, however, seem to creep up behind you with open mouths, like little piranhas when you are not looking. 

After the snorkelling, Mike puts isopropyl alcohol in my ear in an attempt to dry it out properly and Allison and I have a BBC to celebrate our bravery in the sea.  We motor round to Marina Cay where we are to spend the night.  I am tired after all the swimming so I have a little nap then Mike, Adam, Allison, John and myself go ashore. 

Photo:  John exploring the tiny shoreline

Photo:  Allison and Adam 

Photo:  Pussers – a lovely spot for a cocktail 

We walk along the beach and do a little exploring.  This doesn’t take long as the island is so tiny, and we end up at the beach by Pussers and have a cocktail.  By this time it’s getting dark so it’s back to the boat for showers and dinner.

Photo:  Enjoying a cocktail by the sea at Marina Cay

When I go to bed, I lie and wonder whether the germs are already at work in my ear!

Jost Van Dyke

Last night, after washing my hair, I left it natural and have the fright of my life when I sleepily look at myself in the mirror this morning and see Chico Marx staring back at me!

Mike, John and Allison go ashore to get rid of the rubbish and have a look around the shops, then we get the anchor up and motor round to White Bay.  It is almost deserted when we arrive and we have our choice of mooring balls.  Mike as usual, chooses one over by Ivan’s Stress Free Bar.

After lunch, only Simon goes snorkelling.  Poor Adam has been feeling bad since the middle of the night, and stays in his cabin.  Everyone else just lazes around the boat.

Around 3.30, Allison and I decide to go ashore for a walk along the beach.  The bay is not so quiet now, as a few day boats have arrived as well as quite a few charter boats.

Photo:  The far west end of White Bay

Photo:  The east end of White Bay

 Photo:  The Soggy Dollar Bar

Photo:  Corkscrew hair - THIS, folks, is why I blow dry and straighten it!!

Photo:  Ivan’s Stress Free Bar

Allison and I walk the length of the beach, ending up at Ivan’s where all the shell pictures and signs are.  Ivan is there and I point out the photo of him and Heather and tell him I am Heather’s friend.  He nods happily.  We walk to the waters edge and wait for Mike to come and pick us up in the dinghy.  Elegance is not in evidence as we both clamber back in.

We motor back round to Great Harbour for the evening as there is quite a swell, and get take-away pizza from Corsairs.  We all have an early night as we are starting off early tomorrow morning.

Cane Garden Bay to Great Harbour, JVD

I have another bad night’s sleep as the mooring lines have become wrapped around the mooring ball causing it to clunk against the hull of the boat continually.

Rachel and Simon get up just after us, Rachel looking very confused by not being the last, or next to last person to wake!

It’s almost 11 by the time everyone is ready to go, and as we are only going around the corner to Apple Bay, we don’t bother to get the sails up.

Photo:  One of Tortola’s famous bars – The Bomba Shack

As we arrive in Apple Bay, outside CRC (Malcolm and Candace’s house, Chateau Relaxeau Caribe) and start to put the anchor down, Mike realises that we have caught something on the fishing line.  Simon starts to reel it in but it is heavy, very heavy, and fights back.  Mike thinks that it is a rock, as the boat had stopped before we remembered that the line was still out, and the lure therefore had time to sink to the bottom.  We pull the anchor up and Mike lets the boat drift backwards, allowing Simon to continue to reel the line in.  Eventually the line slackens and he brings it all in, only to find that the lure has been bitten in half.  As rocks don’t have teeth, it must have been a fish, and a bloody big one at that.  Maybe it’s better that it got away although Simon doesn’t think so as it would have been his first catch.

Photo:  Attempting to bring in the fishing line – a rock or something huge?

All this time, Malcolm has been watching from his balcony, then the beach, wondering what the hell we are doing so I ring Candace to explain, then Rachel, Simon and I get in the dinghy and Mike takes us to shore.  Getting out is fun, and I am glad that I have my things in a bag as there is quite a swell and we get soaked to the waist.  I go up to say hello to Candace and Mike goes back to get the others.  They put the stern anchor out and leave the dinghy bobbing on the sea.

Photo:  Chateau Relaxeau Caribe – with a beach!

We stay for a while, chatting over a drink, and gazing out at the wonderful view from the top floor veranda, then I notice that the dinghy is on the beach, engine rudder sticking into the sand, and the surf is pounding over the side, filling the dinghy with sea water and sand.  Not good.

All the boys race down to the beach (except Adam who decides to reserve his energy for when the others are exhausted – yeah, right, Adam!).  Mike pulls the plug out of the dinghy but it still fills up quicker than it can empty so they haul it further up the beach then stand there scratching various body parts, wondering how to lift the motor.  This has been stuck for some time.

Photo:  Hauling a sea and sand filled dinghy up the beach

The boys wander along the shore to Sebastian’s for lunch, and we go along the road to join them.  We lunch on hot sandwiches, burgers (the younger members of the crew) before wandering back to CRC. 

Photo:  Lunch at Sebastian’s 

The dinghy is still lying forlornly on the beach and is in need of a little bit of TLC.  Malcolm goes back to the house to get some oil, which is liberally sprayed onto the engine bracket.  Eventually, with enough spray and a lot of brute force, the bracket lifts.

Photo:  Fixing the dinghy

Allison and I watch all the activity from the balcony, sipping water and enjoying the views.  Eventually the men wander back, leaving Rachel and Simon completely alone on this beautiful beach.

Photo:  Alison and Candace admire the view

Allison and I go for a swim.  Yes, you heard right, while the others look on in amazement from the balcony. 

Photo:  Swimming for the third time this year!

Photo:  Do you think Daniel Craig needs a new leading lady?  Perhaps not!!

Photo:  Feeling brave – before the swim back to the boat 

Feeling brave, we make the decision to swim back to the boat rather than struggle to get in the dinghy, and Simon swims alongside to make sure we (well I really – Allison is a better swimmer than me) don’t drown.  Half way back, I realise that it is a lot further than it looks but am now in that position where it is no longer feasible to go back to shore, so I swim on, my strokes getting just a little more frantic.  Obviously, as I am writing this, I make it and am very proud of myself.  Allison and I decide to reward ourselves with a BBC after we have had our afternoon cup of tea.

We motor over to JVD and anchor in Great Harbour.  No sooner is the anchor down that a nearby boat moves and Mike declares their recently vacated spot to be much better than ours.  John pulls the anchor up and puts it down 40 yards away.  Mike declares this perfect and he and John settle down with a couple of dark and stormies, and Allison and I have our BBCs.

Our evening meal is barbecue jerk marinated pork tenderloin, with pineapple relish and coconut rice.  It is cool in the cockpit, with a gentle breeze, quite a contrast to the interior of the boat which is boiling hot.  The cooker ring has been on and as the watermaker has been going all evening to keep up with the consumption, the air conditioning has not been on.  The two on together would blow the generator. 

As usual, all the kids are in bed before us, and with the breeze strengthening, it looks like being a rocky night!