Sunday in Cane Garden Bay

Mike and I have an easy morning.  There’s nothing in the fridge to eat as we are doing the provisioning tomorrow.  Mike has cereal which he offers me, but seeing as it looks like the proverbial droppings from the bottom of a birdcage, I decline.  The only thing left which is remotely breakfast-like is – wait for it – triscuits!  Disgusting.  The worst 120 calories’ worth of food I have probably ever eaten!

In the afternoon, I get down to cleaning the boat and Mike sorts out the gennaker so that it can be taken to the repairers to be sewn back together - 52 knots of wind in the channel tried to destroy it last June.

Photo:  Just on my way out for the evening

In the evening, we head over to the Elm for the usual Sunday night barbecue.  Candace and Malcolm are already there, and we are soon joined by Kim and Rick, then Misty and Gary, then Jim from the beautiful blue hulled Privilege, Blue Moon.

Photo:  Tony, the great chef at The Elm

Photo:  Sandra, the lovely waitress who serves up the great food

Photo:  Steve and George, The Elmtones

Saturday in Cane Garden Bay

When Glenn arrives to discuss the new radio system and wifi at 8 in the morning, suffice it to say that Mike is seriously regretting the night before, or more accurately, Kim’s second rum punch!!

The skies are a clear blue, no hint of haze at all today – and there are lovely white fluffy clouds and a bit of breeze.  I spend some time finishing off my provisioning list for next week’s charter and my shopping list for Heather.  She’ll regret offering that particular service!

By lunchtime Mike is beginning to look a little perkier, and gets up, just as Kim and Rick stop by the boat to enquire as to his health.  However, the mention of sundowners later on sends him scurrying for cover and I tell them that we are going to have a very laid back day.

And we do.

In the afternoon I start to plot our course for the World ARC using Google Earth.  This is a laborious task as I have to find the latitude and longitudes of all the positions.  I easily get frustrated when teaching myself new things – I have the concentration of a gnat at times, but I keep at it.  Nearly three hours later, I have plotted from St Lucia to Equador.  At this rate it will take me weeks, but at least it keeps me occupied.

Around 5.30 I go and sit on the bow of the boat.  It is a gorgeous evening and the breeze is a little stronger which makes it feel comfortably cool (or maybe just not as hot).  I have the camera at the ready to capture a picture of the lovely turtle that has been swimming in the bay.  He/she is a brave little thing and doesn’t dive for cover immediately anyone comes close.  But it must sense my camera, as it doesn’t put in an appearance.

The beach is a completely different place at the weekend.  Everywhere locals hang out and have fun.

Photo:  Teenagers hanging out at the dinghy dock by Quitos

  Photo:  Local lads cruising in their version of a Volkswagon Golf

  

Photo:  And just for Victoria, another beautiful sunset

Mike and I have a lovely dinner of garlic chicken with penne in black truffle sauce, and sit and watch Helen Mirren in Prime Suspect.  We hear a banging on the side of the boat and wander out to find Kim and Rick coming past to say good night.

And the anchor light still works!

Friday in Cane Garden Bay

Today is like a millpond in Cane Garden Bay.  Not a ripple on the surface of the water.  And again, it is very hot.

Mike takes a trip into Road Town.  He needs to visit the Social Security office to pay our dues and get a couple of bits from one of the chandleries.  (When does a trip to Road Town not require the purchase of some miscellaneous, expensive, marine item?)

I spend most of the time on the computer.  When Mike returns he is very pleased with his travels.  While waiting for a taxi, he is spotted by our cheerful delivery guy from the local supermarket and is given a lift all the way there.  On the way back, he is given a lift to the top of the hill behind Cane Garden Bay, then, walking along the road, a friendly policeman from the local station gives him a lift the rest of the way back.  He is a chatty guy and advises Mike to lock his dinghy at all time as there were a few thefts during the recent music festival.  Mike is chuffed at saving $20 in taxi fares.

I try out my new steamer which I bought in St Thomas some months ago.  It works on my linen dress but makes no impression on the guest bedlinen which is what I bought it for.  Oh well, I tried.

Late afternoon, we spot Sophisticated Lady coming around the headland into the bay.  We have been alerted to their imminent arrival by the pictures shown on the webcam that Rick has installed on the bow of his boat.  Having been listening to the Sugarbabes on the music system, I am in dancing mode, and jiggle and wave at them all the way in.  I can hear Kim’s laughter across the water.

Mike goes across to Myetts for Happy Hour, with instructions to come back for me at 6pm and I shower and get ready in peace.  I also take the time to make a few calls via Skype, mainly to ascertain that Victoria managed to get home safely from her course in Kent.  She did but it took her 6.5 hours due to a bad accident scene on Britain’s most crowded car park – the M25.

Mike returns at the allotted time carrying a big box.  The contents are the result of Di Hartzman’s over-ordering of provisions.  Thanks, Di.  We unpack the box and head over to Myetts, leaving the empty cardboard box in the dinghy – don’t want to give any potential pesky cockroach eggs the opportunity to hatch on our boat!

Myetts is full, once again, of the usual suspects; Bill and Di Hartzman, Malcolm and Candace (great to see her back on the island), Rick and Kim, Glenn, and Will and his wife, boat owners with TMM. 

Photo:  Candace and me – Happy Hour at Myetts – again!

Photo:  Glenn, Kim, me and Mike 

We manage to get my drink prepared the way I want (Baileys blended with ice – it ends up like ice cream – yum!).

Tonight’s sunset is even more beautiful than last night’s and warrants more photos.

Photo:  The sun starts to go down over Cane Garden Bay

Photo:  How’s that for pretty?

The crowd starts to go their different ways to eat and we are tempted to go to The Elms, but knowing we will be there on Sunday night anyway, we are easily persuaded by Rick and Kim to join them on their boat for a curry.  How can we refuse?  Friday night is curry night after all.  Rick’s curry is delicious and Kim’s rum punches are lethal.  Luckily, I only have one but Mike gives in and has two.   Ouch, he might regret that tomorrow!

Leverick Bay to Cane Garden Bay

Mike’s new anchor bridle is now finished and looks very posh so he fits it this morning.  After a spot of shopping (which we are able to remember doing this time!), we wander up to say goodbye to Monica, Nick, Kim and Rick, although Kim and Rick will be joining us in Cane Garden Bay tomorrow.

After lunch, we eventually get ourselves together enough to head out.  In the marina it had been hot and muggy, but once under sail, we have a good breeze and it is much more comfortable.

I take a look in the fridge and inspect its meagre fresh contents.  What can I do with carrots and an onion?  After scratching my head a little I decide on spicy carrot soup, and find a jar of strange looking beans in the cupboard to add it it.  These beans are a legacy from the French guys that were on board with Mike in December.  All the writing on the jar is in Spanish and we have no idea what the strange jelly-type stuff surrounding the beans is, but I wash it off and add the beans anyway.  After adding spices and various hot sauces, and pureeing the lot in the blender, the result is quite delicious.  So our evening meal is ready and waiting for us.

We arrive in Cane Garden Bay just after 5pm, and after bottling some of Mike’s delicious home-made water, we sling a few clothes on to go over to Myetts for Happy Hour.

Photo:  The sun starting to go down behind hazy clouds in Cane Garden Bay

It was great to see Mal there, although disappointing that Candace was not with him as she was not feeling too good.  Di and Bill Hartzman were also at the bar.  I found conversation extremely difficult as the Jimmy Buffet-type singer was competing all the time.  Not being a fan of Jimmy Buffet’s music anyway, this was irritating on two counts.  (I wonder how many outraged comments will be lodged against this entry – just as well I can moderate them!!)

Photo:  Mike and I at Myetts, Cane Garden Bay

Photo:  Sunset from Myetts 

We are back on the boat by 7pm and after lovely hot showers, we settle down to our soup and this week’s showing of ‘The Apprentice’.

Normality Restored!

The overnight rain causes Mike and I to sleep badly, unfortunately at different times.  By about 4.30 am, Mike is back to sleep and I am fully awake.  After wriggling around for about an hour, I give in and get up to do something more productive with my time – like last night’s washing up.

I catch up with my blog and get some other work done too, then Mike gets an unexpected treat – a cup of tea already in the pot when he gets up. 

Some time during the morning, and for no discernable reason, a wave of homesickness hits me, and I start to cry.  This is the first time this has happened this year, and the fact that there is no apparent trigger is almost more unnerving than the emotion itself.  The last person I want to offload to is Mike as I do not want him to feel guilty in any way, but he is also the person that I most want a cuddle from, so the poor man is summoned, the cuddle is given and received, and gradually the hollow sickness ebbs away.

We lunch on an old English favourite – Heinz baked beans on toast – hardly a culinary triumph and not one I would give to guests, but yummy just the same.  The addition of sweet chilli sauce makes all the difference.

In the afternoon, Kim and Rick visit the boat and I give Kim the guided tour as it is her first time aboard.  She enjoys the air conditioning!  Rick agrees to help winch Mike up the mast later, if the wind dies down.  Yes, it’s that time again – that ridiculously expensive bit of plastic (the anchor light) needs to be fitted at the top.  Mike puts together a sort of stirrup arrangement made out of rope so that he can stand up when he gets to the top, to actually see what he is doing.  Not that he really wants to see anything, as he is afraid of heights!

The wind does die down, so Rick takes up position at the electric winch with me at the mast and up Mike goes.  Once at the top, he orders me to move away from underneath just in case he drops anything on my head.  From that height, a falling object would probably kill me, so I move, quickly.  He realises that the actual fitting is slightly bent and has to be winched back down to retrieve his Swiss army pen knife, then he goes back up.  By this time, an assortment of people have arrived to watch, cameras in hand, shutters clicking.

Photo:  Rick and I start to winch Mike up the mast

Photo:  Almost up to the first spreaders – half way

Photo:  Don’t look down!! 

Photo:  Standing up in the stirrups to see over the top

Photo:  This puts into perspective how high it actually is 

He fixes the new anchor light into position and we start to lower him, or, more accurately, start to try and lower him, but neither rope moves, even though they are slack at our ends.  Something at the top is jammed.  I look at the grey skies over the top of Virgin Gorda and start to imagine Mike being there all night.  How would we get him down?  Would a helicopter have to come and winch him off from above?  Would we have to cut him off?  In the event, it’s nothing quite as dramatic.  With a little jiggery-pokery, the lines, which have become twisted and are now under tension, come free, and we lower his safely once more.

Guests aboard Snowbird, Jeannius’ sister ship, reward Mike with a can of Boddingtons.  A man comes and thanks Mike for providing entertainment for all the people at the bar who have been watching the entire proceedings.  And the anchor light works – for now!

Exhausted, Mike and I join Kim and Rick on the beach for a drink, but as the sun goes down, we move to the bar as biting things are emerging from the sand and having a good old nibble on Kim’s legs.  Being sick of mosquito repellent, I have resorted to boiling in long trousers.  At the bar we bump into Sally from TMM and her husband Craig, who are enjoying a few days off sailing around on their boat.  Their boat is only 26’ long and Sally tells me stories of life on board without a toilet, but with a ‘bucket and chuck it’ system.  You are a hardier woman than me, Sally – I take my hat off to you!!

Kim invites us to eat with her and Rick and goes off to prepare some food.  We manage to persuade them to prepare the food and bring it to our boat as Mike is desperate for a shower to remove all the white mast paint from his legs, and to spend an evening in the air conditioning.  I prepare tiger shrimp to add to their teriyaki salmon, rice and vegetables, and we wile away a few hours, happily chatting.  A lovely evening.  And the anchor light is still working when we go to bed – even better!

Thanks again to Kim and Rick for the photos!

The Day After the Poker Run “Debrief”

No details, but it’s bad.  Very bad.

Towards lunchtime, we move the boat from the bay into the marina, refuelling on the way in.  Unfortunately, diesel spurts out of the tank as it gets slightly overfilled, and the smell does nothing to help my hangover.  Once in a slip, we hook up to shore power and disappear inside to escape the fumes.

In the afternoon, I decide that as penance for my stupidity, I will do some tidying, clean one of the bathrooms then do the laundry.   As I move my shopping bag I notice a plastic carrier with two cans of ginger beer and some washing up liquid.  I question Mike but he has no idea where it came from.  We obviously bought it yesterday on the way back from Monica and Nick’s but neither of us has any recollection!  Ha, the penny drops.  Now I know why he was go nice about my behaviour yesterday – he was as bad as me!!

The heat is absolutely stifling today, oppressively muggy – really not the right day to do the laundry but I do it anyway.  I pop into the office to see if any apologies are required and Monica kindly lets me off the hook by saying everyone was in the same state.

I bump into Kim in the laundry, who has left a whole load of washing in the drier from early in the morning, proof that someone else is not firing on all cylinders, although she looks a lot better than I feel.

In the evening, we raid the cupboards for our favourite comfort food and Mike cooks a chicken curry.  I know it isn’t Friday, but it makes me feel much better.

 Photo:  All you need for a hangover – a Patak’s curry!

Thank goodness for “Best of British” in Road Town!!

The Day After the Poker Run

Refreshed, Mike and I spend most of the morning catching up with computer work and such like, then head off to Monica and Nick’s for the Poker Run debriefing.

Now, debriefing, to us means you discuss the events and look at what was good, bad, etc with a view to making something even better next time.  Well, over here it means, have a party!

As we had missed out on all the celebrations yesterday, and especially as it had been Mike’s birthday, we join in with a vengeance.  Nick mutters the word ‘champagne’ and unfortunately my brain goes on holiday.

Photo:  Drinking champagne (and still standing) with Mike, Rick and Kim

Many glasses later, I get into the hot tub fully clothed.  Linda, Monica’s sister, has splashed me so much that I soaked anyway.

 Photo:  Fully clothed and in the hot tub!  One champagne too many?

Mike finds this quite amusing, until I disgrace myself by falling over as I am getting back into the tub.  He tactfully suggests that maybe it’s time for us to go back to the boat and I sheepishly agree.  Once back, I do all the things one should do to stave off the hangover from hell which I know will be with me soon, but to no avail.  You do not want the details.  Suffice it to say that I pay for my excesses!!

The Poker Run, Leverick Bay

This morning everyone is up early as the guests have to leave to catch the early ferry for their flight back home.  It is very sad to say goodbye to such lovely people but we have no time to dwell on things as we have to dash up to Leverick Bay to input the results of the Poker Run and we want to see the beginning.

For those of you who don’t know what the Poker Run is, I will explain.  The ‘race’ is conducted by huge powerful speedboats.  The entrants can buy as many poker hands as they like and are given a numbered wristband for each one.  Each hand costs $250.  Starting from Leverick Bay, the boats call at 6 designated spots around the islands - Trellis Bay, Soper’s Hole, Norman Island, Peter Island, Spanish Town and Leverick Bay.  At each stop they collect a playing card.  The winner is not the first boat back to Leverick Bay but the person who holds the best poker hand.  With a total of nearly $18K in prize money, there is a lot at stake so the cards have to be carefully matched and recorded against the wristbands. 

Luckily the direction of the wind is helpful so we put the mainsail up and get 7.5 knots all the way.  En route, lots of speedboats pass us on their way to join the event.  These boats are pimped up to the eyeballs, brightly painted and decorated.  Engines are well and truly tinkered with and are loud and throaty.  Some with outboards have 900hp – and buy, do they shift!  To put it in perspective, this is about the same as as a Formula 1 race car, and they regularly leave the water entirely.

I take the opportunity of a little sunbathing “au naturale “ but the damn boats come up from behind so fast that it’s a series of very hasty cover ups.  It’s hardly worth the effort but I want to get rid of my stubborn strap marks so I persevere.

We manage to arrive just before the start.  The noise and the spray when the huge speedboats take off is incredible, and the two helicopters circling above add to the din, but the atmosphere, for a few minutes anyway, is electric.  Then it’s all over for a few hours until they start to return.

Unfortunately, in our desire to anchor away from the noise of all those engines, we cannot adequately capture the start.  Our poor camera just cannot cope – by the time we take a photo, the speedboats have shot by.  Most of our photos just show huge sprays of water!  Luckily, our friend Rick Moore has all the proper equipment and lets me copy his photos after the event, so all these action shots are his.  Thanks, Rick!

Photo:  The lull before the storm!

Photo:  Jostling for start position

Photos:  Four of the most brightly painted speedboats

Photo:  Now you see (and hear ) them coming …

Photo:  … and now they’ve gone!

Photo:  One of the 2 helicopters involved in filming the event

Photo:  At one of the 6 stops

  Photo:  The man himself, Rick Moore, in action

Once all the boats have left, Mike and I dinghy over, set up our computers, and wait for the first results to get faxed or e-mailed in.

 Photo:  The birthday boy at work

We are given a complimentary drinks card for the day, but unfortunately, can’t take advantage of it as we both have to have our wits about us entering the results as lots of prize money is up for grabs.  Mike sticks with water and beer, and I have virgin pina coladas and water.  Alex, the barman, is particularly insulted at having to make cocktails with no alcohol!

The 6 Poker Run stops, and 160 hands, mean that there potentially 960 results for Mike and I to enter.  One stop uses the spreadsheet that Mike has created to enter the results and we cheer when this is e-mailed as it means that these 160 can be dumped straight into the database.  Phew, only 800 to enter!

During a short break I sneak off to catch some of the carnival atmosphere.

 Photo:   People crowd to admire the boats after the run

 Photo:  Spectators watching an impromptu display of testosterone on the water!

At around 6pm, the winners are announced and there is much excitement.  This is followed by a swimwear fashion show and Kim is the MC.  Judging from the reactions of some of the male spectators, this is even more exciting than the Poker Run itself!

Photo:  Kim in action at the fashion show 

Mike and I pack up our computers and head back to the boat for our showers.  I need to wash off the ton of mosquito repellent from my legs, which doesn’t seem to have worked anyway, as I spot two bites where mosquitoes with no sense of smell have managed to get me.  Having had every intention of returning to the party, the lure of a comfortable bed in an air-conditioned atmosphere after sitting, sweating in a hard chair all afternoon is just too much, and I lie and read while Mike watches the Monaco Grand Prix which he has recorded earlier on the Slingbox.

We sleep very soundly that night, despite the best efforts of the party boat moored just in front of us.  Given the fact that they are all drunk out of their skulls by 7pm, luckily for us, they are probably all completely unconscious by 10pm!

Leverick Bay, The Baths and back to Road Town

Today is our guests last day aboard Jeannius.  We have a good sail round to The Baths, and anchor in Spring Bay, a beautiful backdrop.

Photo:  Approaching Spring Bay and The Baths

The Baths are a stunning formation of huge granite boulders.  Where the sea washes in between the huge rocks, large pools are created and shafts of light play on the water to dramatic effect.  All visitors to the BVIs have to see The Baths.  I’m just glad I get to see them a lot!

  Photo:  How’s that for scenery?  The Baths

Mike takes our guests ashore in the dinghy and comes back to fine tune material for the Poker Run tomorrow then I finish preparing the Chicken Pelau, an eastern Caribbean dish which has been marinating in the fridge since last night.  The secret of this dish is the layer of caramel, the bun-bun, which you make in the pot at the beginning – this turns the chicken meat a stunning dark brown.  Yum!

Realising they have a whole jug of rum punch to wade through before they leave, Gina and Mike make a start, and soon it’s not just the boat which is making Gina sway!

After lunch, Gina decides to go or a swim and before she dips her toe, we spot a huge barracuda swimming around the boat.  They decide to take the dinghy to the beach to finish their walk.  Very sensible!

Photo:  Jeannius at The Baths

Photo:  Lauren in one of the rock pools at The Baths

All too soon it’s time to head back for Road Town, and our reserved slip in Inner Harbour.  On the way back, I marinate the mackerel that Reid caught the other day and he then pan fries it.  We eat it as an appetiser on crackers – delicious.

Back in Road Town we moor up at Inner Harbour and it is a race to get to The Dove in time for our 7 pm booking.  It takes some time for Mike to hitch up to shore power and after my shower I am so hot that I need another one, but eventually it all works again.

 Photo:  Mike and I at The Dove

At the restaurant, the food looks so good that we have our photo taken before we destroy the evidence!

  Photo:  A wonderful meal at the end of a great week

Cooper Island to North Sound, Virgin Gorda

We leave Cooper Island and head for The Dogs for the guests to do some more snorkelling.  I can never work out why these lumps of uninhabited rocks were named the way there are.  There are no packs of dogs roaming free, and as far as I can tell, the islands do not resemble any type of dog I have ever seen, which ever angle you view them from.  Still, it’s more inventive than the Little Harbours, Great Harbours and White Bays etc that most of the islands seems to have.

Anyway, I digress.  On the way, Reid, fishes as usual, but this time doesn’t catch anything.  The stop at The Dogs is disappointing, as the water is slightly churned up still and there are lots of small jellyfish around.

 Photo:  Snorkelling at The Dogs

We carry on up to North Sound and Mike motors around the whole area to give the guests a view of the four resorts; Saba Rock Resort, Bitter End Yacht Club, Biras Creek and Leverick Bay.  We anchor off the beach at Prickley Pear for lunch.

After lunch the guests go ashore to the Sandbox bar but are driven back to the boat by the unexpected number of noseeums and sandflies.  Also, as they are the only people on the beach, there is no real atmosphere in the bar, and no music, so different to the last time we were there, but this is low season.

We motor over to Leverick Bay, heading for our favourite spot at Mooney Bay.  Just as we go through the mooring field, we get a bite on the fishing line and Mike pulls in a large barracuda, complete with razor sharp teeth.  You do not want to eat one of those, and they will try to get your hand off as you attempt to remove the barb but you can’t just leave it on the line so  Reid valiantly goes to do what he can just as the barracuda gives one huge tug and bites completely through the line, taking the lucky lure that Kev gave us with him.

The afternoon is overcast and thundery looking, and so hot and humid that everyone just lazes around the boat until the temperature cools down enough to make having a shower worthwhile.

We have an early dinner of Pan Seared Tiger Prawns with Swahili Sauce and Pasta, then Mike takes the guests over to the Friday night Leverick Bay party while I shower then prepare tomorrow’s food.

When I eventually join the party, all the usual suspects are there;  Nick and Monica obviously, exhausted by the preparations for the Poker Run on Sunday, but still going strong; Rick and Kim from Sophisticated Lady, a crowd of staff from Necker Island and boatfuls of others, all over in Leverick Bay for the 3-day holiday weekend and the Poker Run.  The marina is full;  51 boats have booked in and about another 50 or so are due in tomorrow and more on Sunday.

Monica’s sister and niece, Linda and Kaya, put on a spectacular flame swirling display that they are learned in Africa, then the Mocko Jumbies arrive on their stilts.  Unfortunately one poor guy falls, which, from that height, must be painful, but after a short rest, gets back up and joined in the party.  The live band gets everyone dancing and the drinks flow.  I stop at two bushwackers – I have learned my lesson – for now!

Photo:  Gina, Lauren, Myself and Mike at the Leverick Bay Friday night party

On the way back at the boat, we wander up through the marina.  The Puerto Ricans turn up in force for the Poker Run and many are already here in their fast speedboats, their blue underwater lights shining and illuminating the huge tarpons and barracudas swimming around.  Their music blasts out of huge speakers, their particular brand of Latino rap called Reggaeton.  When we get back to Jeannius, luckily, we discover that we are too far away to hear it as I am sure it goes on into the middle of the night.

Norman Island to Salt Island and Cooper Island

Not quite as an important event as Gina and Mike’s 25th, but today is our 28th wedding anniversary, and I get two cups of tea in bed as a reward!

Although our destination is Cooper Island, we first head for Salt Island so that our guests can snorkel over the wreck of the Rhone, a British Royal Mail Steamer which was shipwrecked during a hurricane in 1867.  This was used in the filming of the movie ‘The Deep’.  Unusually, we are able to sail most of the way there on one tack, just zig-zagging along at the end.

We moor up and off they go, but do not spend too long - the visibility is not the best as the day is overcast.  They do manage to see the whole of the wreck though.  As the mooring area is quite crowded and one shouldn’t hog the buoys, we motor around the corner in a quiet bay on Salt Island for a  lunch stop and the guests go exploring while I prepare lunch.

 Photo:  Salt-encrusted fishing boat

Photo:  Mass grave for the victims of the Rhone shipwreck

Mike does his cave man thing with the barbecue and the result is  good - Barbecued Spicy Mahi Mahi with Caribbean Salsa and Salad.  He tries to take the credit but I tell him it’s all in the marinating!

 Photo:  Our anniversary lunch

In the afternoon, moored up in Manchioneel Bay the guests go snorkelling off the beach and I have a lovely nap.

In the evening we all go for dinner at the Cooper Island Beach Club – it’s a lovely anniversary meal, courtesy of our guests, Mike and Gina.  Thank you both.

 Photo:  28 years on and still smiling!

 Photo:  A perfect evening with a lovely family