When we slip the lines from our mooring and head out, it is a very different Merrimack River to the one we came in on yesterday. Then it was like, as I said, the M25 with no lane control. Today we are the only boat sailing out and the water, instead of being in a frenzy, is calm and collected. Oh there’s still current all right. You can see it criss-crossing the river as we get to it’s mouth, but it’s … serene in a way.
Along with no boats, there are no people on the shores, which, I have to say, look as thought they have been given the once over. Everything looks pristine.
When we emerge into the Atlantic once more we can see where all the fishing boats are – sitting in the rip tide right outside. Well obviously the early bird gets the worm and all that!
Past the rip the water is amazing. Rather than looking like glass, it more resembles a thick, viscous, blue oil. I don’t know how else to describe it. It undulates and rolls against the sides of the boat. There’s barely a sound and the wind is just enough to make our flag flutter. You can’t actually see the horizon – I think there is the faintest hint of a sea mist and it merges the two together in a smoky haze, eerie and beautiful at the same time. A fantastic sight and experience, marred more than just a tad by having to have the bloody engine on!
As we approach Cape Ann we get quite close to land once more and again the houses are spectacular. I just love the architecture all through New England. I think that New England housing is my new sunsets – I just can’t get enough of it!
Photo: A pirate ship out for a jolly jaunt
We zig zag through the islands at the tip of Cape Ann, Mike sticking pretty rigidly to my course instructions where the currents will allow him, and come face to face with an island with two huge lighthouses. Why two we have no idea.
Suddenly from a distance of over 25 miles away we can see tall skyscrapers – Boston! I can’t believe the visibility once the haze has gone. We were going to go to Marblehead today but decide instead to go to Salem. It’s on the same estuary but according to the cruising guide appears to have more visitor moorings.
We continue another 18 miles or so and enter Salem Sound, following many channel markers until we reach our destination. On our way, we see the first of what I presume will be many mansions, but I know these are nothing in comparison to what awaits us around Rhode Island and Connecticut.
The first mooring I attempt to hook on to gives me trouble because there appears to be a tangle of chain on the mooring ball and I nearly lose the boat hook trying to disengage it so we try another one. I hook the rope but it is so thick and covered with the most revolting slimy brown stuff that Mike has to come and help as again the boat hook nearly goes overboard. Touching the line is a repulsive experience and I run screaming for the galley to wash my hands afterwards. Once he looks at what the slime has deposited on the deck, Mike washes his too. The seaweed is home for many little creatures – some scuttlers and some wrigglers. I get a bucket of water and wash them all over the side. Vile.
Mike had a bad night’s sleep last night so goes off for a nap. I take over the internet. Tomorrow we will see what Salem has to offer.
Position: 42 deg 31 min N, 70 deg 53 min W
Distance so far: 1922 miles
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