Day 94: Hiva Oa to Nuku Hiva, Marquesas – 09/04/10

We decide to leave after lunch and have a night passage to Nuku Hiva so spend most of the morning on the internet chasing up the spare parts that Mike needs for the watermaker and generator, then filling the diesel tank from the jerry cans.  Of course, this then means a trip to the petrol station in the dinghy to refill them ready for the journey.  The little shop there has all sorts of food and we manage to get a few fresh products such as tomatoes and onions.  We also spot a pastry cupboard and choose some savoury pasties and some strange warm, white, doughy balls.  We have no idea what they are, and the woman behind the counter doesn’t seem to know either, although she knows how much to charge us (the usual arm and a leg). 

When we come out with our shopping (£50 on two tiny bags of stuff) all the jerry cans have disappeared.  Stolen?  It turns out, no.  The helpful lad who works there has taken them all to the dinghy dock out the back and is standing there ready to help Mike load them all into the dinghy.  Immediately he has finished, he waves, says goodbye and leaves.  No waiting around for a tip like most of the places we are used to.  What a refreshing change.

It’s almost lunchtime by the time we get back to the boat, so we tuck into our purchases.  The white, doughy things turn out to be suet rolls filled with minced chicken.  Once you give in to the fact that you have to spit the gristly bits over the side of the boat, they are quite nice.  The savoury pasties turn out to be filled with guava.  Oh well, not my favourite so Mike finishes mine as well as his own.

We set off just after 2 pm, and we put the main up although there is virtually no wind.  Mike is hopeful that when we leave the shelter of the island, the wind will be there. 

Photo:  The mountains of Hiva Oa poke their heads through the clouds

Photo:  The Marquesan island of Tahuata behind us in the distance

We sail past the island of Tahuata, with its beautiful white sand beaches, and as we pass the west side of Hiva Oa we are joined by a load of dolphins, dancing and playing in the bow wake (although this surprises me as there is as little a bow wake as you can possibly get).

     Photos:  Dolphins swimming with Jeannius

I manage to film them but it is not as easy as with my other camera (roll on when I get the replacement).  They stay with the boat for about 15 minutes which is wonderful.

We leave Hiva Oa behind but the wind still refuses to make its appearance.  Mike goes for a sleep as he will have the two watches tonight.  I sit and watch the sun go down, and bring the fishing rod in.  Behind me, the sky over Hiva Oa turns a delicate pink.

Photos:  Pink sky behind and a sunset on the horizon

All through the evening, the wind stays pathetically light.  We keep the engines off though – we are in no hurry.  Why burn diesel when you can sail in silence at 3.5 knots?

 

Our position is:  09 deg 24 min S, 139 deg 35 min W

Distance so far:  5745 nautical miles