After doing yet more laundry (we have an unlimited supply of water on the quay) Carole and I hit the streets of Papeete. Carole is a girl on a mission, and that mission is to help me buy pearls. We start off looking for Johanne’s pearls and we trail around the same shops as I did yesterday. We spot an upstairs shop that I didn’t see before and once inside, I see a necklace that I instinctively think is the right one. Naturally it’s more than the guide price Johanne gave me (isn’t it always that way?) but it is a beauty. I haggle the guy down quite a lot and we shake hands, but they have to do some work on it (I think it needs to be a little longer so they have to add a few more pearls and a clasp, and we arrange to pick it up later.
We then go round to Robles pearls again, where I choose two necklaces and a pair of earrings. The pearls are significantly different to those that I bought from the pearl farm, being green and much larger but not of such high quality. I will have the original ones set very traditionally and therefore will have two very different types of jewellery.
Photo: My two new necklaces
We go to the market to buy a juice as we are both really thirsty, only realising when we get there that neither of us have any money, so we go back to Jeannius, meeting John on the way. He has been going out to buy some lunch for himself and Mike as they have been waiting like baby birds for us to return and provide them with food and have now given up in disgust.
After a quick drink, we all head out again, back to the market. Unfortunately the juice bar is closed, and the sugar cane juice stall closes as we approach so it’s cans instead. We stop at the food stands and Mike eyes up the chow mein and chips in a baguette – I kid you not! And he buys one!! I settle for six deep fried shrimp.
We walk round the fresh fruit and vegetable market buying some nice bits and pieces, plus a huge lump of white tuna.
Photos: Papeete market
After the market, Mike goes off to the chandlers and fishing supplies shop and Carole, John and I go back to the pearls shop to buy Johanne’s pearl necklace. I am a bit worried that my credit card might get refused as it has been hit just a little bit (!) recently, but all is OK and I am pleased with the finished result.Everyone is tired by this time, but I still really want to visit the Robert Wan Pearl Museum, and as we are probably leaving Papeete tomorrow, I decide to go alone as it’s only a 15 minute walk through the shore side park.
It’s a fascinating place. There are exhibitions of the history of the pearl farming industry as well as reconstructions of costumes and jewellery that people such as Queen Elizabeth I wore.
Photo: One of the exhibits at the museum
I give the museum a suitable amount of browsing time but in truth I am more interested in the Robert Wan shop exhibits! Robert Wan is THE pearl guy in French Polynesia and his wares have prices to match – but they are beautiful. I am encouraged to try on whatever I like and end up with a £200,000 pearl necklace around my neck. I’m surprised they don’t lock the doors while I’ve got it on! They have champagne coloured pearls and baby blue coloured pearls (both of which I try on at a mere £20,000 a piece). There are some pieces which make my jaws drop and I hope to God I’m not dribbling! Even the beaded curtains are made from pearls.
Photo: The Robert Wan shop
I leave the museum as they are locking up, dice with death as I cross the road and make my way back through the park. The sun is setting over Moorea and lots of guys are out in their canoes. It is a lovely walk back.
Photos: The rowing starts in earnest as the sun goes down
Photo: Walking through the park, clouds obscuring the mountains
Photo: The sun setting over Moorea
Photo: Jeannius moored Mediterranean style in Papeete marina
When I get back to the marina, Jutta invites us aboard Chessie for a wine tasting session as she is trying lots here before stocking up for the trip to Australia and I arrange to go over, but when I get back to Jeannius, Mike is in bed with a headache so it’s just the three of us that go. After a few drinks Carole and John go off to find something to eat and I stay behind – just for a little while. The little while ends up being a bit longer and I am still sitting there when they come back having eaten, and carry me back to the boat. Unfortunately Mike had been waiting for me to feed him (oops), but had given up and found himself some instant curry in the cupboard - I am severely berated for neglecting him and my wifely duties, but I have a feeling I will pay for it tomorrow anyway.
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