Day 110: Fakarava, Tuamotus to Tahiti – 25/04/10

I wake up feeling distinctly not quite well but can’t put my finger on what’s wrong but it seems to pass after a while so I think no more of it.  We go with Chessie to explore the south pass and the ruined village of Tetamanu.  Even as we are clambering into the dinghy we can see squalls gathering on the horizon and dark clouds just beyond us.

Photo:  Gathering skies

We try to land at what we first think is a dinghy dock but actually turns out to be the decked walkway to the dive shop, having to make an abrupt stop as deep water suddenly gives way to a beautiful wall of coral.  The water is fantastically clear and you can see lots of purple and pink brain coral and bright blue fishes darting around.

Photo:  Purple ‘brain’ coral

We explore what’s left of the old village but it isn’t very interesting, just a few ruins scattered amongst what is now very obviously a haven for divers given the number of dive shacks and little cottages for diving holiday makers.  Then the heavens open and we take refuge in one of the dive centres, gleaning information from one of the divers about the best time to leave through the pass.

   Photos:  The dive centre and surrounding area

We stand and wait for the rain to pass, then wander out onto the deck.  From here, and in less than three feet of water, I can count eighteen sharks.  OK, so they are only about four feet long but even so!  No swimming for me.  The dive leader assures me that we stand more chance being bitten by one of the dogs on the island than by one of the sharks, not mentioning the three people that were bitten here in one day just a few days ago (they had been feeding the sharks and should have known better).

Photos:  Black tipped sharks and parrot fish seem oblivious to each other

We head over to the area where we have been told that there is a pink sand beach, getting dumped on by another rain cloud as we make our way over.  It’s a bit of a trek as we have to go right outside the reef before heading back in as we would not be able to get the dinghy through.  Even from a distance it’s beautiful, but close up, the pale baby pink sand is stunning.

 

Photos:  Walking around the sand banks and beach

The water is so fantastically clear that I realise it’s that time of year again, and I just have to go in although I only do this for a short while as the tide is coming into the lagoon and there’s quite a current – but just long enough for a bit of posing.

Photos:  Amazing colours, an amazing few hours

On the middle of the little island we find a grizzly sight, a human skull and some other bones arranged with some coconut husks.  Jutta (who as a doctor should know) says that the skull is real but we don’t linger long enough to check out the site properly as it is just too creepy.

Photo:  A grizzly sight just tucked off the beach

We say goodbye to Jutta, Jochem and Tom on the beach as they are staying until tomorrow and make our way back to Jeannius in the dinghy.  The ride back is uncomfortable as I am constantly thrown up and down across the rough waves.  By the time we are back at the boat, I am feeling as sick as a dog and aching all over.  I start to get the anchor up and it gets caught on a coral head, just like at Manihi.  Three times the anchor chain pulls out and the windlass is unable to stop it.  I don’t believe this!!  Mike tells me to put the hook on the chain to hold it and motors forward and with a great jerk, the anchor comes free, I take the hook off and quickly pull the chain up.  Then we just have to tackle the pass!

Again, just like when we left Manihi, it looks a little daunting (well a lot daunting to me actually) but Mike has no problem.  Finding his way around the coral heads by way of the markers, he points Jeannius straight down the middle of the channel and charges through with the current.  Once we are out, the sea flattens out the winds settle to a steady pace and we get the two genoas out, goose-winging them as the wind is almost directly behind us.  We have a lovely sail, smooth and peaceful, which is good as I am now knocked flat for the second time in two months with a stomach bug.  By late afternoon, I am no good to man nor beast, lying on my bed with bad stomach cramps and aching all over.  I am also boiling hot, but not sweaty.  Just like a sick dog with a dry nose, I am bone dry.  And I feel very, very sorry for myself.

I sleep for most of the afternoon and evening, just getting up around 11 pm to do a watch.  Thank goodness there is nothing to watch and no weather so worry about.

 

Our position is:  16 deg 42 min S, 146 deg 10 min W

Distance so far:  6435 nautical miles