The huge tyres that we are to hang on the side of the boat do not arrive and when we enquire as to their whereabouts, we are told that we do not have to have the tyres – they are only for the boats who are on the outside to stop them from crashing into the wall of the canal. We also don’t need to catch the huge ropes which will be flung from the handlers ashore, again because we are in the middle.
In fact, we probably have the best position. We are in the middle of the middle row, nicely cushioned. Apparently we can sit back and relax once we are rafted up with Kalliope III and Skylark. Well, except for Mike who has to stay at the wheel.
We hang around all morning, waiting for the off. I put on a loaf of bread and Mike goes to settle the marina bill, ready for an argument about the water. Every time another boat has been rafted with us they have had to use our water supply so how they are going to work that bill out I have no idea. In the end the way they do it is not to charge us at all which is the only sensible thing really.
At noon we are the first boat to leave the marina. We travel across the bay, past a very strange boat and the P & O Oriana, to the shallow water just outside the channel into the canal, anchor and have lunch.
Photo: The P & O Oriana
Photo: A very strange looking boat indeed!
At around 4.30 pm our pilot, Ivan, arrives, and deftly steps from the launch onto our boat.
Photo: Ivan arriving on the pilot boat
Around 5.30 pm we take the anchor up and motor into the channel. Half a mile away from the locks we raft up to Kalliope III on the starboard side then Skylark on the port side. This is so exciting! Once we are rafted, it is Jeannius’ engines which drive us forward, with just a short burst from the other boats’ bow thrusters when required.
Photo: Approaching the Gatun Locks, Skylark on the port side…
Photo: …and Kaliope III on the starboard side
The line handlers throw enormous ropes onto the two boats either side (God am I glad they aren’t aiming for ours!) and they tie on. Mike drives us into the first lock, with the line handlers on shore walking the ropes forward. Once we are in position in the lock they attach the lines to huge cleats on the top of the lock wall, and the crews either side of us take up the slack on their boats, tying them on tight. By now it is dark.
While all this is going on I dash in and out making Chicken Pelau for dinner, not wanting to miss the excitement. Luckily it’s a dish which requires little attention once it is marinating, and I am able to see everything going on through the galley windows now we have taken the exterior window covers off.
Photo: Lined up in the lock
Once all five rows of boats are in, the huge mitre gates close and the water starts to come in, all 197,000,000 litres of it, creating swirling pools in the lock like a boiling cauldron. The water displaces the boats which start to pull madly on their ropes and swing diagonally, sending first Kalliope III towards the walls then Skylark.
We seem to rise up really quickly and it is hardly any time until the water level is equal to the next lock and the gates open, the shore line handlers arrive and we motor forward again, repeating the actions of the lock before. Except this time, dinner is ready and while the lock fills, we eat.
Photo: The second lock
This is all repeated a third time, and just after 9 pm we leave the Gatun Locks and enter the Gatun Lake 26 metres higher up than we started.
Photo: Exiting the last of the locks
We anchor in the deepest water we have ever anchored in – nearly 80 feet – and put 270 feet of chain to hold us there. Our pilot leaves us with a handshake and a ‘well done’ to all of us. What a fantastic day I think to myself as I head for a good night’s sleep.
By the way, I have 22 minutes worth of video of the above events which, if I ever get reliable internet connection will be uploaded.
Our midday position is: 9 deg 15 min N, 79 deg 54 min W
Distance so far: 1262 nautical miles
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