The alarm wakes us at 5.30 am and Mike gets up to make the tea. I drink it in bed then I hear Mike raising the anchor and off we go. Once we have left the shelter of the bay, the wind really picks up and as we go down the coast of Tahuata it gusts wildly up to 33 knots and threatens to blow our huge cockpit cushions away. Mike puts some more velcro on them and calls for me to sit on them until they stick properly.
Sitting there naked except for my sailing hat (thinking how lovely it is not to have to wear clothes again) I am gradually covered in salt spray, and my goosebumps start to get goosebumps. It is only 6 in the morning and with the sun hidden behind the island, and the strong wind, I am cold, so I give in and call for a t-shirt.
Most of the gusts are coming down from the mountains, so once past the island Mike can work out where the real wind is coming from and what it’s strength is, and we put up the sails.
Photo: The sun struggling to rise over Tahuata
After about an hour, I begin to feel a bit yucky. It’s not like a trip to St Martin from the BVIs (the measure of all horrid sailing trips and sea sickness) but it’s not far off. I go down to the stern cabin, put the fan on and go to sleep. I get up after a few hours at the point where the condition of the wind and sea makes Jeannius roll. Mike asks me why I just don’t go back to bed, but I know I need to be near the side of the boat – just in case. In the event, nothing happens, but I spend a couple of hours anticipating it. The funny thing is though, feeling sea sick doesn’t put me off eating. Drinking – yes. I have to force myself to drink, but I can shovel food down with no problem. A couple of other people have said the same, so I know it’s not just me being weird.
The journey continues for longer than I thought it would (I was under the impression it was 30 miles from Hiva Oa and it is more like 45) but eventually the end is in sight. Approaching Fatu Hiva is a lovely sight. This volcanic island, like the others here, is very different to look at to the volcanic islands of the Caribbean. Here they are pointed, craggy and angular, apparently because they are so much younger than those in the Caribbean and have not had their edges smoothed off by millions of years of weather systems, and for that, they are far more dramatic in appearance.
Photos: Angular landscaping, all sharp edges
Photo: Entering the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva
We arrive in the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva late in the afternoon. It is stunning. Absolutely stunning. The island is made up from two volcanos and they join at the bay. The rock formations are majestic, towering columns that look, from some angles, as if they have been carved into figures. Palm trees cling to the almost vertical slopes on either side of the bay, as do the goats which we can hear bleating on and off through the afternoon. Toucanon is already anchored up, and within an hour, Thetis, Brown Eyed Girl and Chessie all arrive too. Along with the four or so other live-aboard boats already anchored, the bay is probably now full.
Photos: Views of the Bay of Virgins as the light changes
Quite a lot of those waspy things are around which is a bit of a nuisance but the scenery is so stunning that I am prepared to overlook their presence.
Photo: Sun setting on the horizon
We sit and drink tea watching the sun go down then go over to Tucanon with Klaus and Paul from Thetis for a drink.
Photo: Paul, Mike, Bev and Mo
Photo: Klaus, Paul and Mike
Photo: Myself and Oisean
We come back to Jeannius for dinner and are glad that there are leftovers from last night’s meal. The boat is difficult to cool down after cooking now as the reduced output from the generator is not sufficient to power the main unit. Again, we watch TV while eating our dinner in the stern cabin which is the only cool place on the boat. Mike only just manages to keep awake until the end of the programme as he didn’t have the same amount of sleep during the day to make up for the 5.30 start this morning.
Our position is: 10 deg 27 min S, 138 deg 40 min W
Distance so far: 5649 nautical miles
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