My second watch is uneventful, although there are lots of cloud formations showing on the radar. When they show as large uneven blobs you know that they have the potential for being squalls but luckily none of them are. We get a few spits of rain from one of them but that’s all. A tiny crescent moon eventually makes its appearance at 6.30am which is no real help as it immediately disappears behind the bank of clouds, as does the sun when it finally begins to rise.
At 7am when I am due to be relieved from my position at the helm, Mike and Jim are still both asleep. I wait, not particularly patiently, I might add, and eventually Mike gets up but then spends another 15 minutes looking at the charts. By this time I am grumpy and petulant. I want my bed. I need to rest my neck and shoulders.
When I do leave the helm, sleep eludes me. I hear another one of the WARC boats calling the non-existent rally control on the finish line saying that he is five miles away which is strange because at this point, we are only about four or five miles away ourselves. There has been a little blip on the radar behind us for some time but I had presumed it was a cloud as there were no lights. As the day dawns, and having heard the announcement, we look behind more carefully and spot the yacht. It has obviously been sailing without its navigation lights. Tut tut!
We cross the official finish line at 8.58 but there is still no sight of land as there is a heavy spray caused by the enormous, crashing waves which are still with us. Gradually, over the next hour, the San Blas islands with the Panama coastline as a backdrop, begin to come into view. There are 378 of these islands, of which only about 49 are inhabited by the Kuna Indians, a fiercely independent people who have maintained their own economic system, language, customs and culture. We have been told to expect visits from them in their dug out canoes selling their local produce and handicrafts and have been given explicit instructions not to take away any coconuts we might find while exploring, even if they are found on the floor, because every coconut belongs to someone.
We pass the first group of islands, the Hollandes Islands and head for Green Island instead. The sea is still heavy and huge waves break over the reefs which are numerous (and unmarked!) but we arrive safely in the anchorage to find Voyageur and Tucanon already there, both having arrived yesterday afternoon.
We anchor and settle down for a rest. The anchorage is protected on nearly every side by reefs and we bob gently on the water. No slapping, no heaving, no pitching, no rolling. It is bliss to feel and beautiful to look at.
David from Voyageur comes over to invite us for dinner on their boat. The rest of the day is spent relaxing as we are all exhausted from the constant motion of the boat over the last few days, which I have to say I absolutely hated. When I start to get ready to go out I decide to take a bit more off my hair then blow dry it with some level of trepidation (leaving it curly hides all manner of scissor heavy-handedness!) but I am delighted with the results. All I have to do now is master mixing the colours with the peroxide and I will be a fully fledged self hairdresser!
We go over to Voyageur where Susan and David have also invited their friends Penny and Peter that they met when they did the Blue Water Rally a couple of years ago. I am so glad I have chosen not to wear my blue dress from Topshop as Penny turns up wearing the exact same one but in white. She had bought it from a shop in Australia for half the price I paid for mine.
Susan and David are excellent hosts - we are plied with wonderful food and plentiful drink all evening and have a truly memorable time. As we are leaving, I take great care going up the stairs then down into the dinghy. My short, tight lycra dress shows every line so I have chosen not to wear knickers and don’t want to flash anyone. Penny and Susan can’t believe I have gone out knickerless! Mike just laughs – he’s used to it.
I cannot believe it is nearly 1am when we eventually get back on Jeannius. The boat is still covered in salt. I hope it rains overnight.
Our midday position is: 9 deg 46 min N, 78 deg 19 min W
Distance so far: 1100 nautical miles
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