We set sail around 7.30am to go south to Dominica. There is absolutely no wind but Mike puts the main sail up in the hope that enough wind will pick up to help us on our way.
After about an hour, we put the genoa up too as there is a little more, then a nasty squall develops on the horizon and the wind cranks up to 25 knots. We take the sails down as it looks like four different squalls are lining up over the port side. Then they all just disappear, one after the other leaving us with no wind again so we motor the rest of the way to Dominica.
We arrive around noon and check the horizon for the usual fleet of ‘boat boys’ that normally rush to greet you. These can often be found as far as a mile offshore, where they wait, ready to ambush you if you show any signs of coming into port. Today, only one arrives. I have to admit that I am a complete wimp with this type of situation. Dominica is a very poor country and arriving in a boat, either as an owner or a charterer, I am the same to most of its residents. I am seen as rich pickings. I know these guys are only trying to eek out a living, and good for them, but I feel full of guilt for having comfort in my life when so many people have so little. The fact that I have worked hard for what I have is irrelevant. Anyway, I am relieved that only one guy arrives, and even more relieved when he turns out to be one that is recommended in the cruising guide book – Albert . He welcomes us to Dominica and is professional and polite. He asks us if we want a trip up the Indian River, but Mike wants to get the check in palaver over with and says we’ll decide later. Albert says if anyone else approaches us we are to say that he is looking after us.
We motor over to the customs office at the far side of town and Mike goes ashore to check in. As our paperwork from Marie Galante is all fine and dandy, there is no problem but Mike is told that he also has to go to immigration which is at the police station in town. This is because two of our crew are leaving the boat – Johanne and Steve are flying back to the UK tomorrow.
He has read that duty free diesel is available from the Cubrits fuel dock and as we are nearly out, we head over there. Albert trundles over with us and sorts out a taxi for Johanne and Steve for tomorrow morning at 5am with his mate, Max. Unfortunately the fuel man is at lunch so having moored at the dock, we have lunch. Steve has been good trying, and liking, things that he normally says he doesn’t like (mainly prawns) that Johanne says she will try tuna. I fry up some of our black fin but she isn’t convinced and finishes off the crab meat instead. Mike goes off to the police station and comes back just as Steve is filling the tanks with fuel. It is the cheapest fuel we have bought anywhere so he is very happy. We move the boat once more to its night anchoring spot.
We agree to go with Albert on a river trip and tell him to come back for us at 4pm. He arrives bang on time. We check with Albert if there are any security issues before leaving the boat as there are no security patrols in the off season. These patrols have been necessary over recent years as the yachts are tempting for some of the local thieves and crack heads. He says our dinghy will be OK during the day but we need to pull it up tonight.
We set off. Portsmouth used to be the capital of Dominica but this was switched to Roseau some time in the mid-18th century because of the amount of swamp land surrounding it. The infrequent hurricanes which have swept through the area have put many ships onto the shore here, and they still lay, rusting and rotting with plants growing out of them as it is too expensive to dispose of them.
Photos: Views of Portsmouth waterfront and the wrecks that line it
There are so many wrecks that the entrance to the Indian River is completely hidden by them.
All tour guides have to be certified, and their knowledge updated every three to four years. Albert proves that he certainly knows his stuff but I have to say that I have forgotten all the names of the trees, plants, flowers, birds and other creatures that he points out on the tour.
Parts of the Indian River were used in the filming of “Pirates of the Caribbean 2”. Albert points all these points out. It is so much cooler on the river; it narrows within a few hundred yards and becomes completely overhung by huge swamp bloodwood mangrove trees on both sides which provide a canopy. Albert explains that they get their name from their sap – when the bark it cut, it oozes red like blood. The canopy helps to block out any noise and the trip is almost slient, eerily quiet and magical at the same time. The roots of the bloodwoods are amazing. They are massive and spread out along the banks, above and below the water, twisting and tangling into wavy designs. They also help stop the soil erosion which happens during heavy rains - the river can rise by as much as five feet in one day. These roots are home to many creatures, including the huge white crabs, one of which is shown above. The river is also less ‘buggy’ than I expected although I liberally coated myself with noxious chemicals before leaving Jeannius.
Eventually the river narrows too much to progress and it is at this point that a bar has been built, so we stop for a drink. The bar is run by Kent, a lovely young man who works and lives all alone in this semi remote location. He makes us noxious and strong drinks which are … interesting … shall we say? Steve, who sticks to beer, is the only one who goes for a second drink.
The whole trip takes us about 2 hours and cost $160 EC. It’s probably more in the high season, and I can highly recommend Albert.
The sun is setting as we head back to the boat. Yet another sunset opportunity.
Johanne and Steve spend the evening packing while I prepare the last supper, scallops in Swahili sauce. We watch some comedies on DVD as it’s a bit buggy outside, then turn in for an early night as they have to be up at 4.30am to get their flight.
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