Neither Johanne nor I sleep very well as our bites are a constant source of irritation although Johanne’s are much worse and more numerous than mine. That’s St Barths for you.
Mike goes over to check the boat in and is successful at finding someone this time, but as it is a Saturday and ‘overtime’ is involved, we have to pay an extra $40 for the privilege. When he comes back he phones Joe Phillip, a tour guide mentioned in Chris Doyle’s cruising guide and books him for an island tour. This galvanises Johanne and I into action as we have to be ready by 10am.
Joe gives us a leaflet which he has written himself about the island and the Soufriere Hills volcano, then starts the tour. He cleverly has produced a photo album which shows how the island looked before the eruption and how it looks now. We are to see these comparisons many times.
A completely new capital is being built at Little Bay, complete with a marina, yacht club, hotel and leisure facilities and a long boardwalk. This is to replace the town of Plymouth which was completely devastated when the volcano erupted in 1995 and covered the whole area with ash and rock. This is a huge undertaking and will not be completed until 2020 at least. Joe takes us to look at the new government buildings, along with the brand spanking new prison. Even paradise has its baddies!
We then go to the abandoned Air Studios, the famous recording studios once owned by George Martin. This ‘fifth Beatle’, a recording producer, organised a huge concert to support the people of Montserrat and the money raised went to build their new community centre. He still spends his birthday here every January.
The studios were stripped out years ago, but entering the buildings, we are able to stand in the recording studios where such greats as Dire Straits, The Police, Status Quo, Eric Clapton and many, many more have recorded. Many of these signed the ‘floor of fame’ just outside in the concrete.
Photo: Status Quo ‘83 signed in the concrete
Photo: Steve looking through memorabilia in the recording studio
The recording studio, now stripped of its equipment and electrics, still has piles of manuals and unused reels of tape. We look through some of the stuff and discover disks for old Atari machines, rather than PCs, a sign of their age.
The buildings were originally a house, and the recording studios were added by George Martin. For something which has been abandoned for 20 years, the condition is really quite incredible, especially in this climate and in its remote location.
Photo: The view from the pool
Photo: From the front of the studios, the Soufriere Hills volcano is clearly visible
From the recording studios we drive down to a river which is now covered in approximately 40 feet of volcanic ash and rock. Once narrow, the flow which now covers it also covers the houses and golf course which were once by its banks. Million dollar houses lay abandoned all around, although some of them further up the hillside away from the flows are now being bought and done up. We pick up many pieces of pumice which are just lying around. No one will have rough feet on our boat any more!
Photos: The volcanic flows through Belham Valley smother everything in their path
At Old Road Bay, the end of Belham Valley, the volcanic ash and rock has filled in a huge area of the sea. The original dock is now about 500 yards inland, and huge rocks are now just off the beach, brought down by the flow.
Photo: The original dock, its posts just visible in the bed of ash
Photo: A new volcanic beach is formed
Photo: A last look at the volcano
After nearly four hours, Joe drives us back to Little Bay and raging thirsts are quenched at a local bar, before going back to the boat. Most of us have a little nap. Mine, as usual is a little longer! The flies are still a nuisance so Mike and Steve take the anchor up and motor just around the corner to Rendezvous Bay. This is only accessible by boat or a long hike and is the only non-volcanic sand beach on the island. Mike, Steve and Johanne all go for a swim but it just doesn’t look inviting enough for me.
In the evening we put the barbecue back onto the side of the boat and cook fillet steaks.
Photo: Mike and Steve
Photo: Mike and his other woman, Johanne
Photo: He looks less excited by cuddling me – cheek!
After dinner, Johanne and I decide to do our star gazing thing on the trampolines. It is a really star filled night and the Milky Way is clearly visible as there is no light pollution here. I try to take a photo of the stars with the correct setting on the camera but the movement of the boat makes this impossible.
Photo: Searching for shooting stars
Photo: Acting silly has no age limit!
Eventually I leave Johanne alone on the bow to go and write my blog. Typically, as soon as I do this, a huge shooting star streaks across the sky. Ah well, there’s always tomorrow!
I do miss those trampolines and star gazing with Heather...
ReplyDeleteHeh you both have great legs still! I am envious of you silly girls.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the update on Monserrat. We have a friend who owned 2 houses there. One was being built just as the volcanoe blew! I do think that one of the houses is still standing somewhere up in those hills.
Great blog as usual...