Ann and Terry go with Mike early in the morning to shore; Ann to buy croissants and Mike and Terry to arrange a hire car. Like most people, we hire a mule, basically a large golf cart.
We all pile into the dinghy, once again forgetting the sensible order of things and letting Terry get in last. Already being in the dinghy when he descends can be dangerous as it shoots 3 feet up in the air. One day, if we forget to cling on as he gets in, we will be catapulted into the sea!
Unfortunately the ‘car’ hire people had forgotten to tell us that they have to take the driver to the airport to get the car and complete the transaction so we wait at Basil’s bar for Terry to come back. Mike wants a Mustique t-shirt but unfortunately the selection in Basil’s has gone downhill somewhat in my opinion since we were last here and they now look like they have been designed by children. Yuk!
Photo: The back end of Basil’s Bar
Photo: Mike and I on the prettier side of Basil’s Bar
Photo: Alice on Britannia Bay beach
Eventually we are sorted and start our drive around the island. Mustique is completely different to the rest of the Caribbean islands. It is owned by the Mustique Company, which in turn is owned by the island's home owners. The island has approximately 100 private villas, many of which are rented out through the Mustique Company. It is beautifully tended and the whole island has almost a surreal feel about it. Behind high hedges, fences and down long drives, hide sumptuous villas, although some are open to the lovely beaches (none of which are private). I have never seen so much proper grass in the Caribbean. Well, when I say proper, if you walk on it, it has the feel of astroturf – a thick, glossy and definitely ‘unreal’ feel to it, but real it is.
Photo: Our mule taking a rest with green grass verges
Photo: Ann gazes across to houses owned by Bryan Adams and Mick Jagger
Photo: Ooh look … another coconut - amazing
Photo: One of the ‘main’ roads – complete with speed bumps
We have a map which leaves a lot to be desired but we manage to find our way to Firefly, the restaurant we have visited before, only to find that it is shut until October. That will probably save us some money!
There are more tortoises walking along the road than people, and we make frequent stops to move them into the vegetation at the side and remove them from the water culverts that side most of the steeper roads. We find one poor tortoise with his nose stuck against the concrete side of the culvert, not sure which way to try to go.
Photos: Operation ‘anti road kill’
After a drink at Basil’s and lunch back on the boat, Alice and Mike decide they have seen enough of Mustique and opt for sleeping and reading. Terry, Ann and I go back for seconds though, and explore the wilder side on the Atlantic coast. Having spotted this deserted beach from high up on the hillside, we eventually manage to find our way down to it (despite the crap map). I am sure that normally it is even more beautiful but there is that bloody weed everywhere, stinking he place up, the same weed that has been washed up on seemingly every beach up and down the Caribbean. The sand down near the waterline is like quicksand and we sink almost to mid calf before going back a few feet to make sure we don’t sink any further. It’s weird stuff! There are signs along the beach warning not to swim. Looking at the turbulence in the water, there must be some very strong currents here – I’m certainly not tempted!
Photos: A walk on the wild side – Macaroni Bay
We enjoy our tour although we probably have seen more than we should have, having gone down countless drives which do not say ‘private’ and ending up at some staggeringly beautiful homes before having to turn around and make our way back.
Photo: The southern end of Britannia Bay
Terry treats us to ice cream from Ali’s Cafe, where we are served by the surliest person we have met in the Grenadines. Service is not given with a smile, and after giving us our ice creams, she stomps off down the street, leaving the next customers waiting at the cafe. She does return, serves them just as miserably as she did us then stomps off again. The third set of customers don’t bother waiting. I don’t blame them (although the ice cream is worth waiting for!).
Photo: Picturesque boutiques on Mustique
Back at Basil’s Bar, we wait for Mike to pick us up in the dinghy. This takes a while as Mike and I have a communication problem between the handheld VHF and the one on the boat.
Photo: “Come in, Skiplah …”
The evening passes in the customary way although Terry does get his haircut part 1 – part 2 and the eyebrows will have to wait for another day!
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